This setup is currently printing at 20 micron layers ;p
This is a re-designed nozzle assembly for Ultimaker. No additional materials were required to fill gaps like PTFE tape or extruding ABS to fill gaps- as is the way for Ultimaker setup. Simply turn-up the white PTFE part tap some threads and screw together/ assemble.
PEEK PDF drawings now available. NOTE# Only use Makergear 36mm heater barrels and nozzles. The UM versions don't work with this design! There are 3mm and 1.75mm (BETA) versions of this design.
#Note: if you unscrew and remove the Bowden tube for matinence. When reassembling unscrew the four long M3 screws and lower the entire print head assembly then insert the Bowden tube through the top hole and screw it back into the PTFE part and refit the print head. This avoids over tightening the Bowden tube into the PTFE part to much!
You can purchase PEEK for RS in Australia.
The M6x36mm brass tube and 0.35mm nozzle are from www.makergear.com and do not require PTFE tape to seal there presision machined and bed properly -
The following flickr image http://www.flickr.com/photos/scottmayson/6858896762/ has notes for the relavent dimensions. Central filament hole is 1/8"
I will post a drawing soon if you want a shop to do it for you. In the meantime I had a play with tinkercad the students in our rapid class were talking about it. It's not bad Solidworks is my platform but they should be worried. https://tinkercad.com/things/iLvjDceNMLc I'll supply a solidworks part soon! dont fully trust the tinkercad part please ;p
However, this part was machined to fit the existing Ultimaker bowden tube with M6 x 10mm thread cut by hand, alloy plate with four holes that fixes the nozzle in place and Makergear brass tube and nozzle.
"Variation" The Bowden tube could have an M7 thread if cut by hand and matching M7 thread in PTFE component, The top will need to be shorter and rounder to allow for the M7 thread.
Heater block recycled from Ultimaker.
M6 tap intermediate and end